The Grassmarket is a free, open historic square in Edinburgh’s Old Town, set in a hollow directly below the Castle. It costs nothing to visit and is open around the clock, lined with pubs, cafes and independent shops. A weekly market runs every Saturday from 10am to 5pm, and the square is famous for its dramatic Castle views and dark execution history.
Tucked beneath the towering south wall of Edinburgh Castle, the Grassmarket is one of the Old Town’s oldest and most atmospheric public spaces. For roughly 500 years it was the city’s cattle and horse market, and later its most notorious place of public execution. Today the cobbled square is a lively hub of traditional pubs, restaurants with outdoor tables, and boutique shops, all under the gaze of the fortress on the crag above.
What makes the Grassmarket special is the collision of grim history and easy-going charm. You can stand on the spot where more than a hundred Covenanters were hanged, look up at one of the finest Castle views in the city, and then settle in at a pub that has been pouring drinks since the early 1700s. This guide covers the square’s history, the Saturday market, the best pubs and views, how long to spend, and why the whole experience costs nothing at all.
Grassmarket Opening Hours
The Grassmarket is a public square with no gates, no ticket and no opening hours, so it is open and free to walk through 24 hours a day, all year. Its pubs, shops and restaurants keep their own hours, typically from late morning until late evening. The Grassmarket Market takes place every Saturday from 10am to 5pm, year-round, weather permitting.
Because the square itself never closes, you can visit at any time, though it is at its liveliest from late morning through the evening when the pubs and terraces fill up. Early mornings are quiet and good for photography, while weekend nights bring a busy bar and dining crowd. The individual businesses set their own times, so check ahead if you are aiming for a specific pub or shop.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit the Grassmarket is a Saturday, when the weekly market fills the square with food, craft and jewellery stalls between 10am and 5pm. For quieter sightseeing and the clearest Castle photos, come early on a weekday morning. Summer evenings are wonderful for the outdoor terraces, though this is also the busiest festival season.
If you want the market, Saturday is the only day it runs, so plan around it. Spring and autumn bring softer light and thinner crowds, while the August festival period makes the whole Old Town, this square included, extremely busy. Sunny days draw everyone out to the pavement tables, so for a relaxed drink with a view, aim for late afternoon before the evening rush.
How Long Does a Visit Take?
Allow around 30 to 45 minutes to walk the Grassmarket, read the Covenanters memorial, browse the shops and take in the Castle view. Add an hour or two if you stop for a drink or a meal, or want to explore the Saturday market. Combined with neighbouring Victoria Street and Greyfriars Kirkyard, it easily fills a half-day in the Old Town.
The square is compact, so a quick look takes very little time. Most visitors linger far longer, however, because the pubs, the market and the surrounding lanes invite you to slow down. Pairing the Grassmarket with the streets that lead off it turns a short stop into a rewarding morning or afternoon.
What to See at the Grassmarket
The highlights of the Grassmarket are the view up to Edinburgh Castle, the Covenanters Memorial and shadow-of-the-gibbet paving marking the old gallows, the historic pubs including the White Hart Inn, the colourful curve of Victoria Street leading off the square, and the lively Saturday market. Together they blend dramatic history with the Old Town’s best street life.
The Castle View
The Grassmarket sits in a natural hollow directly below the Castle Rock, giving one of the most photographed views in Edinburgh. The fortress rises sheer above the western end of the square, and the angle from the cobbles looking up is a favourite with photographers, especially in the golden light of early morning or evening. It is a free alternative viewpoint to seeing the fortress from within on an Edinburgh Castle visit.
The Covenanters Memorial and the Gallows
The eastern end of the square was Edinburgh’s main place of public execution for centuries. More than a hundred Covenanters, Presbyterian dissenters, were hanged here during the religious persecutions of the 1660s to 1680s known as the Killing Time. A memorial marks the spot, and a curved “shadow of the gibbet” set into darker paving outlines where the gallows once stood. It was also here that Maggie Dickson was hanged in 1724, only to revive on the way to burial and earn the nickname Half-Hangit Maggie.
The Historic Pubs
The Grassmarket has some of the oldest and most characterful pubs in the city. The White Hart Inn claims to be Edinburgh’s oldest, dating to the early 1700s, and counts Robert Burns and the notorious body-snatchers Burke and Hare among its past visitors. Others, such as Maggie Dickson’s and the Last Drop, take their names from the square’s execution history. This is one of the best pub-crawl stretches in the Old Town.
Victoria Street and the Shops
Curving up from the north-western corner is Victoria Street, a steep, colourful terrace of independent shops often cited as an inspiration for Diagon Alley. Its rainbow of shopfronts makes it one of the most Instagrammed streets in the city, and it links the Grassmarket directly up to the Royal Mile. The square itself is lined with further independent boutiques, cafes and delis.
The Saturday Market
Every Saturday from 10am to 5pm, the Grassmarket Market brings stalls of original artwork, crafts, jewellery, locally made food and street food to the square. It is a relaxed, browse-friendly affair and a good place to pick up a one-off gift or a bite to eat while soaking up the atmosphere beneath the Castle.
Is the Grassmarket Worth It?
Yes, the Grassmarket is well worth visiting and is one of the best free things to do in Edinburgh’s Old Town. For no cost you get a superb Castle view, centuries of dramatic history, some of the city’s oldest pubs and, on Saturdays, a lively market. It also sits within a short walk of Victoria Street, the Royal Mile and Greyfriars Kirkyard.
Few Old Town spots pack in as much character for free. Whether you come for the history, the photography, the shopping or simply a drink with a view, the square rewards the visit. Its central location makes it an easy and natural stop on any Old Town itinerary, and combining it with the streets and sights nearby makes for a full and memorable few hours.
Things to Know Before You Go
- The Grassmarket is a public square, completely free with no ticket, booking or opening hours; only the pubs, shops and market keep set times.
- The Grassmarket Market runs every Saturday from 10am to 5pm, year-round, so plan a Saturday visit if you want the stalls.
- The square is at its liveliest and busiest on weekend evenings and throughout the August festival season; come early on a weekday for quiet and clear photos.
- It is one of the best spots in the city for Castle photography, particularly in early-morning or evening light.
- Victoria Street, the Royal Mile and Greyfriars Kirkyard are all a few minutes’ walk away, making the Grassmarket an ideal base for exploring the Old Town on foot.
How to Get to the Grassmarket
The Grassmarket sits in the heart of the Old Town, in the hollow directly below Edinburgh Castle and just south of the Royal Mile. Edinburgh is compact and highly walkable, and the easiest way to arrive is on foot: from Waverley Station it is about a 12 to 15-minute walk up through the Old Town, and it connects to the Royal Mile via the colourful curve of Victoria Street or the steps of nearby closes.
By bus, Lothian Buses serve the surrounding streets, with several services stopping on the George IV Bridge and Lauriston Place areas a short walk away. A single fare is a flat GBP 2.40, tapped with contactless, and a day ticket is around GBP 6.00. The Edinburgh Trams do not reach the Old Town directly; the tram is most useful for getting into the city centre from the airport before you walk across.
Taxis can drop you at or near the square, though the Old Town’s narrow, cobbled and partly pedestrianised streets can make walking the quickest option. From the Grassmarket you can stroll straight to Greyfriars Kirkyard, the Royal Mile and beyond within minutes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Grassmarket free to visit?
Yes. The Grassmarket is a public square in the Old Town with no gates, ticket or entry charge, and it is open to walk through at any time of day or night. You only pay if you choose to buy something from its pubs, shops, restaurants or market stalls.
When is the Grassmarket Market on?
The Grassmarket Market takes place every Saturday from 10am to 5pm, throughout the year. Stalls sell original artwork, crafts, jewellery, locally made food and street food in the square beneath the Castle.
Why is the Grassmarket famous?
The Grassmarket is famous for its dramatic history and its Castle views. It was Edinburgh’s main market and place of public execution for centuries, where more than a hundred Covenanters were hanged, and today it is a lively square of historic pubs, shops and restaurants directly below the Castle.
What is there to do in the Grassmarket?
You can admire the Castle view, see the Covenanters Memorial and the shadow-of-the-gibbet paving, visit historic pubs such as the White Hart Inn, browse independent shops, shop the Saturday market, and walk up the colourful Victoria Street towards the Royal Mile.
How do you get to the Grassmarket from Edinburgh Castle?
The Grassmarket is a short walk from Edinburgh Castle, in the hollow below its south side. You can walk down from the Castle esplanade through the Old Town in roughly 5 to 10 minutes, most scenically via Victoria Street or the closes off the Royal Mile.
Is the Grassmarket worth visiting?
Yes. For no cost you get one of the city’s best Castle views, centuries of history, some of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs and a Saturday market, all in a compact square within a few minutes’ walk of Victoria Street, the Royal Mile and Greyfriars Kirkyard.
